As could possibly be expected coming from a former child star, justin bieber clothing has already established many a fashion transformation over the years. He’s done quiffed hair plus a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented having a floppy fringe as well as a suit. But although some of his attempts to toughen up happen to be met with derision, the latest part in the Biebvolution is actually bang about the fashion money. There have been ripped jeans. There has been oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts with all the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen a great deal of layering – and many raw edges.
Not everybody gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) however the latest incarnation of Bieber ties right into a mood which is sweeping through menswear – and might be arriving in your own wardrobe soon.
In a nutshell: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is within. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge having a tracksuit top as well as a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You can dub it a hot mess for males, but the one thing you would never think of it is hipster – manicured beards ought to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore for the teen awards, has been integral to the boost in demand for denim and of jeans that are hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the type of look which enables parents eyeroll and say: “You paid for that? Do want me to place proper hems on those?”, then it has legs. Elsewhere on the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers that were roughly stop at the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing occurring; close up, the holes during these knits are layered over a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a kind of anti-luxury luxury – is there in all the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is an excellent reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, probably the most in-demand photographers in vogue, these pictures use a typical masculine rawness. Within a short video to accompany this shoot, you can even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories to the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is that this Man?, even though the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a few days worth of facial hair.
Haute scruff was also across probably the most talked-about moments in the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that has been located in a Chinese restaurant variously referred to as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that have been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just presented of bed. A lot of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like the parcel delivery service); even the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a start up the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots plus a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence popular is only set to keep: after the show, one among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, was to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is an additional in the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label is maintained by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel as if a nerdy handle Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, although not.
The truth is, if everything else fails, the important thing to this look is really a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for men. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for females (see British Vogue’s December issue, where several tracktops are featured included in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, as it ticks the 1990s box – as well as the dexqpkyy16 is becoming the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the exact opposite of all of the justin bieber t shirt which has been the headline news in menswear within the last several years. Not only that, it’s an easy task to chuck on, doesn’t seem like you’ve made an effort but suggests you are aware what’s occurring. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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